VARANASI - LAND OF MAGIC & MYSTICISM

Arati on the Ganga here in Varanasi is a brand new experience. It is ages old and seems it has been done in this way for ever and ever. The simplicity of it all, the earthiness, the symbolism, the purity albeit amongst the stones, mud and village life brings the ritual to life in such a profound manner. There is a tiny little wooden platform set up at dusk, with a few items for the Arati. A beautiful young sannyasin (I think he is) comes dressed in golden clothes. He has a serious and divine face. He stands on the platform facing Mother Ganga and proceeds to do many arm waving in wide circles and then above his head. Facing each side in slow progression, north, south, east and west. Always ending facing the Ganga. He proceeds from small items of flame to giant items, with the same movements and seriousness. There are a few people standing around striking bells and one shaking a drum rattle. The entire ceremony takes from sunset to dark, probably about 45 minutes, and then suddenly it is over and everyone runs down to the waters edge and scoops up waters and drinks, dropping water on their head, eyes, and throat, heart.
Then we go back and the young sannyasin goes back to his little wooden platform, and we all crowd around for the red dot on our forehead.
I felt that I was back when Amma was a young girl in her village in Vallickavu in Kerala, when she danced with swords on the bare earth and was wild and free.
Afterwards I ate on the steps with others and the food was really delicious - it was cooking there on the ghat. I saw a dusty young girl of about 9 looking hungrily at the food and gestured for her to sit and have some. The man cooking understood and began preparing her plate, when another young girl manifested so she came too and then a young boy. The man offered them all a plate and between the four of us I paid about 160 rupees which is .... you work it out at 30 rps to 1 AUS$. We all wiped our lips, smiled at each other and faded into the ether as we had come.
Today I have been treated by chance to another wonderful event. A concert on the rooftop of the Ganga View Hotel of a beautiful dance and music event. Katak dance from Northern India. Very special and I have videoed the entire performance.
Things are looking bright - and today I saw a burning body on a pyre with the family of the dead one sitting close by watching. It seems such a great way to finish this life - and was for me - inspiring.